„A nation’s culture resides in the hearts and in the soul of its people” Serbian version
– Mahatma Gandhi
One Sunday in October, I happened to meet a different kind of Belgrade, the capital of Serbia. It all happened a year ago in a golden season such as autumn when the sun shines peculiarly and makes the city the most beautiful in this part of a year. In the autumn, Belgrade sun is lighting the path we walk every day and shines brightly over colorful scattered leaves and thus revealing to us new look and the new appearance of reddish and golden Belgrade treetops.
In these autumn days that we popularly call “old woman’s summer” (in Serbian: Miholjsko leto) we wanted something different from our Belgrade. For many years we have been listening to various stories about the city of secrets and deep mysteries, intense but vivid past. We felt a need to take a look into this “other” city and its long-ago hidden secrets. We are talking about the city which survived different times, the city which was the witness of various cultures and customs, a crossroad and a place for living some of the great nations and empires.
Group of friends and I also wanted to be a part of the Tour “Underground Belgrade” (In Serbian: Beograd ispod Beograda), where the main host and its guide was Mr. Zoran Nikolic. As he is the great researcher and journalist he portrayed the picture of an ancient city and its inhabitants. He told us many anecdotes, legends, and tales. For a moment you thought that you are in a totally different epoch and period of time, and then again you realize that even if you are born in Belgrade, you actually don’t know the bigger picture and complete history of your city. This guided tour lasts two or three hours and includes the visits to the Roman Well, Military bunker of two identical cannon hiding nests, Big Gunpowder Magazine and Underground wine cellars at Karadjordjeva Street. On your way to each destination, you can take a small break while Zoran is telling you some anecdote and a picturesque tale, which treasures it our Belgrade. Zoran is speaking so openly and cordially in order to present a different picture of the city, at which we now gaze with admiration.
The guided tour started at Kalemegdan Park, and together with Belgrade Fortress, these two beauties represent the heart of the city. A small group of curious people met at the starting point where there is the monument of Gratitude to France, and from this spot, our Belgrade Tour officially began and with it the discovery. We found out that the first monument was built in honor of Karadjordje who was a Serbian revolutionary leader, who fought against Turks during the First Serbian Uprising 1804-1813, but then during the First World War, the monument was removed by Austrians. Austrians came up with an idea to construct the new one, one which will be in the honor of Austrian Emperor and King of Hungary Franz Joseph I. Austrians sent this monument to Belgrade, but the Serbian people intercepted the ship which carried the mentioned statue. Afterward, the monument was transformed into the bells of Ruzica Church, located in the Belgrade Fortress. These bells are still ringing in Belgrade nowadays.
Roman Well is our first let’s say “official” stop regarding this Belgrade tour. We’ve all heard about Roman Well, and some of us have already had an opportunity to visit it. Myself, on the other hand, haven’t had the chance so far to take a look inside this mysterious attraction. This city attraction has been closed and disorganized for a very long time, but today it is opened for the public and all the curious people who desire to visit it. During our daily city walks at Kalemegdan Park we can visit the Roman Well (later in the text: Well) and explore its hidden secrets. It is located in the heart of the Kalemegdan Park, at the Belgrade Fortress near the monument called “The Victor” (in Serbian – Pobednik), which sculptured it the famous sculptor Ivan Mestrovic. The symbol of Belgrade and the original name of this monument was “Messenger of Victory” (in Serbian – Vesnik Pobede). Today, there is still a debate what is the exact date of construction of the Roman Well, however, the date which was officially declared and it is now written in the front of the entrance is 1717-1731. The Well was built by Austrians when they conquered the city a long time ago. The name “Roman” is linked to the idea that Austrians thought, around that time, that they are successors of the Roman Empire.
There are big metal doors at the entrance, which looks like medieval. We’ve learned that there are 212 steps in total to the water level. You can climb up from one side and climb down from the other. For safety reasons, it is now not allowed to climb down the stairs to the water level. It was genuinely believed that Roman Well was some kind of tank or reservoir which gathers the water from the surface. It was built strategically, in the case that the Empire is surrounded, they could easily have the free access to the water.
The path which leads to the Well is now organized, cleaned and lightened. It’s a little bit chilly inside and the air is also little stale, however, these things are actually normal for this kind of place. We were approaching to the Well in the line, one by one, and since we all wanted to take a look down there, at the bottom of the Well and take a picture of it, it was pointed out by our host to be very careful not to drop our phone or camera into the Well. There are also metal bars onto the Well which is put for safety reasons as well.
Roman Well had turbulent past. Series of events were connected to its existence. These events were dark and mysterious and the picture of these scenes looked like some potential horror or thriller movie. That was confirmed too by Hitchcock, the greatest director when he visited Belgrade in the 60s. During history, there were executions, murders, and tortures that were associated with the Well. The Well hides many secrets too, missing creatures somewhere deep down at the bottom of the Well.
One of the first cases regarding Well’s dark mystery was the horrible execution of Hungarian conspirators in the 15th century. In that period of time, long ago in 1494 Belgrade was a Hungarian and Christian stronghold. The men were convicted of high treason and then punished very brutally. Back then, 37 Hungarian conspirators wanted to surrender the city of Belgrade to the Turks, without the fight. They were bribed and the contract was sealed between a respectable nobleman of the city Lawrence of Ilok (in Serbian: Lovro Ilocki). In the meanwhile, the great Hungarian leader Paul Kinjizi (in Serbian: Pavle Kinjizi) found out while he was in Timisoara. He immediately marched on Belgrade to prevent this incident. He arrived in Belgrade right on time, the Turks have already been prepared to enter the city and take the keys. Great commander Pavle drove the Turks away from the city and brutally punished those traitors. The plotters were dropped down by ropes to the bottom of the Well, without the food and water. When they were exhausted enough, the knives were thrown down in the Well so they can kill each other, one by one.
The second incident occurred during the Serbian rule where the King of Serbia was Milan Obrenovic (as King he ruled 1882-1889). Two women under the names of Ilka Markovic and Lena Knicanin were accused of treason and together they plotted to kill the sovereign Milan Obrenovic. The assassination wasn’t successful. Nevertheless, Ilka and Lena were both immediately arrested. What happened, in the end, is that Ilka was found dead in her prison cell smothered with her own towel and Lena was, after she spent some time as a prisoner in the Roman Well, also found dead. It was allegedly said that it was a suicide. But, next to her dead body a soldier who was keeping her safe was also found dead. The bullet, which was meant to be fatal for the Serbian King Milan, had some other destiny in the end. The King then ordered that this bullet must be decorated with rubies and diamonds, and a tiepin to be made of this special object. Today, this special and precious object is well preserved in Belgrade City Museum.
Somewhere after the WWII, a murder occurred in Belgrade. After a walk, a jealous man killed his own mistress in such a brutal way, pushing her into the Well. The body was found by divers, ten days after their thorough search. In fact, after some time the body just showed up on the surface, and at that time nobody didn’t know where the body had been hidden until then. Based on this true Belgrade story the movie was filmed under the directing rule of Dusan Makavejev – Love Affair, or The Case of the Missing Switchboard Operator (1967).
There are stories too that the Germans were diving into the Well during the period of World War II. There is no evidence how many of them were on this research and what they were looking for down there. It was said that divers never got out from the bottom of the Well and furthermore, the story said that they disappeared somewhere in the waters.
Now that I think of this Belgrade attraction I always remember these stories about past events, very dark and brutal. I also understand that these events are the part of the history of our famous Belgrade Fortress and Belgrade itself. This mysticism and something unknown is exactly what attracts the tourist and a curious person who walks by it. After the visit to the Roman Well weird and various thoughts have been stayed in my mind for a longer period of time.
The first phase of the guided tour was over and now we’ve been headed to our second stop and that was a Military bunker of two identical cannon hiding nests. It is also located near “The Victor”, in the place called Fidjir-bajir or simply the hill where you can think freely. Truth to be told I have never thought that there is something like that on this very spot. We’ve all heard stories about the city undergrounds, especially at Kalemegdan Park, but when you finally get the opportunity to see and experience all that, you’re curiosity and desire to learn more rises up. We were divided into two small groups because these underground places are too small and narrow. The feeling, while you’re beneath the ground, causes claustrophobia, during the visit it felt suffocated and extremely tight. The bunkers were built just after the ending of World War II, and they represented the defense and readiness in the case of the Soviet attack on Yugoslavia, those past days. It was all happening just after the famous political incident and conflict between the president of Yugoslavia Tito and Russian president Stalin. According to some sources Tito refused to submit to Stalin’s will and Soviet Politics. Back then, it was good to be prepared in the case of retribution, so Yugoslavs came to the idea to build the bunkers as the precautionary measure against the enemy. It is interesting that in this exact place, in the distant past, was standing former and original Nebojsa Tower or also popularly called “donjon tower” (in English: Keep). We call this kind of a tower as the strongest tower or the tower of the last defense. Nebojsa Tower was originally built by Stefan Lazarevic (1377-1427), despot of Serbia and the son of Prince Lazar Hrebeljanovic. Once upon a time in the past, when the Turks were on the march in the 16th century, the tower was set on fire during a lightning bolt. Historians believe that in this right place, a long time ago, there was the original Nebojsa Tower. Many years later, when the people were building those bunkers they found a massive and heavy cemented wall. It was believed then that it was the foundation of the construction. However, the current state of international affair in Yugoslavia indicated that the quick and serious actions must be carried out. The wall was mined in order to dig these bunkers, deeply in the ground.
The residents of those bunkers were capable and healthy young men, without the fear of the enclosed space and the men who were ready to be situated in the same bunker for many months ahead. You can take a look inside and find out that this space was made with ventilation and it consisted of a couple of bunks, which were meant to be in use by these persistent and brave young men. We didn’t stay too long down there, especially because of this enclosed airless space, and I must say a lot of people weren’t feeling very well “locked” underneath the ground, without the fresh air.
The next step of our inspiring city walk was Big Gunpowder Magazine or popularly called by citizens of Belgrade “Barutana”. It is located below the Belgrade Fortress overlooking the Danube river. The Magazine was built by the Austrians about three centuries ago. At present, there are numerous monuments displayed in there – sarcophagus, tombstones, sacrilegious objects, and various sculptures. All of this has its origins in the ancient Belgrade (ancient name for Belgrade is Singidunum), and also in Viminacium (today town known as Kostolac, Eastern Serbia) and Sirmium (today town known as Sremska Mitrovica, Province of Vojvodina). That would be the period between I and IV century A.D. In the central part of the room, there were a table and chairs, and at the moment everything looked like a small amphitheater. As we were sitting in this place surrounded by those monuments of time, Zoran was speaking about the ancient Belgrade and its ancient inhabitants. We found out that the underground of Belgrade is of the same importance as the city itself. During the centuries many nations had been living in the city – Turks, Jews, Greeks, Armenians, Austrians, and Germans. In the city and for the city of Belgrade many battles were led in the past. We are now certain that much more souls reside under the ground of the city than citizens currently living in Belgrade.
When we talk about mysticism and the underground city of Belgrade it was also mentioned about the resting place of Attila the ruler of the Huns (died 453). After he conquered Belgrade and after he spent two years living on this soil, Attila suddenly died. Legend says that his grave is somewhere around this area, at the bottom of a nearby river. His soldiers swore on their honor and took a vow to never reveal the true rested place of their great commander. And it seems now that his soldiers truly fulfilled that given vow. The secret of the rested place of Attila the Hun in the coffin full of gold, somewhere in the bottom of a river, will remain eternal secret.
The whole city of Belgrade resides on old cemeteries – from Kalemegdan Park to all the way to the central parts of the city. Romans were buried from Republic Square to the Bulevar kralja Aleksandra (in English: Boulevard of King Alexander), along with all the main roads and the city traffic. Turkish graveyard was in the area of mosques and the largest one was on the spot of present Students Square (In Serbian: Studentski trg). In the area of Tasmajdan Park, there was in the past Jewish cemetery. Actually, what this means is that each place in the central part of the Belgrade is, we dare say, the resting place of souls and nations of different religions and cultures, and of the great people who shaped this city we know today, thus giving the city certain profundity and complexity. The large city park – Tasmajdan, was the big and ancient cemetery. The one part of that cemetery with famous and prominent people of the city was transferred to the place that we call today Ruzveltova Street and New Cemetery. The evidence of burials and the books of deceased have never existed and it is now believed that the vast majority of souls are still rested underneath the ground of the great Tasmajdan Park. How much we admire the ancient past, ancient city and its inhabitants you cannot help but feel sudden sadness and start to think of these long lost souls and all of them who set foot in Belgrade. And now, they are somewhere forgotten, without the mark and a name below the pavements, Belgrade parks, squares, and streets. You then realize that Belgrade is big and it always was an important city. It is a truly cosmopolitan city mixed from various cultures, religions, and customs, and at the same time binding the modern and traditional. I believe that in that there is the greatness of one city and the further prosperity of its people – to understand and accept, and in every moment of change to try to survive and become enlightened and stronger in any aspect of life.
Our last destination during this tour is a little cheerful story and Bohemian tour downtown, relaxing one with homemade wine, while we’re listening to the new stories about underground city cellars. Those underground cellars were built by Austrians and they were kind of a warehouse for grains, wines, and groceries because of its ideal temperature. These cellars were located from Branko’s Bridge and all the way to the Kalemegdan Park. The only way to enter these cellars is from Karadjordjeva Street. At present, while you walk along Karadjordjeva Street and Sava river, you can see remains of an old elevator which was used to lift the goods from the docks into the upper parts of the city. Just when I think now how many times in my life I walked by this same road, and I didn’t even pay attention to this detail of importance for our history. Actually, whole this area and these tracks of the past are neglected and ignored. Kosancicev Venac, which is now the urban area above the docks and Sava river, was a neighborhood with the most beautiful houses and buildings, where Serbian aristocracy lived during the reign of Obrenovic dynasty. These houses cannot be seen nowadays, it was all destroyed during WWII. Whole this area had an amazing view over the docks, rivers, and the Big Stairs, which connected docks with the downtown above. According to some research, these docks were always full of people, and in this place, it was always very loud and busy. As it was a state border it was also some kind of a waiting room, where people were either leaving for Europe or arriving. Because of it, small coffee houses (in Serbian: Kafana) were opened for the people who waited longer. The goods arrived daily and it was exchanged exactly on this spot.
Situated in one of those downtown cellars we drank the glass of wine for Belgrade and for the end of our friendly journey. Zoran kept talking and while we were full of impressions, not knowing where were we exactly, in what period of time and what city. Plenty of information, vivid scenes in our minds, thus creating moving pictures of past events. Definitely, it is not the city we’ve known so far. Its history we have never learned in schools, at least not in this way. Surrounded by friends and love I’m expanding my own aspects and views, I’m gaining new knowledge and becoming enlightened, just like my Belgrade. Cheerful fellowship led by our host in a nicely arranged wine cellar came to an end. We move on, returning back to our present time and modern Belgrade. But now we have some new topics for discussion, wider heart, and incentive to learn plenty of new things about Belgrade. For our further research, the book written by Zoran Nikolic and Vidoje Golubovic can help (in Serbian: Beograd ispod Beograda). All doubts and more detailed representations of some events you can easily find in this precious book. I always return to it and admire it again, all recommendations!
With Love, Andy